Bad weather was forecast last weekend, although the weathermen got it wrong again. But never mind, instead of going to do a recce trek in the Nebrodi mountains (another mountain range further along the coast towards Messina) it was decided to go to the Wild Vegetable Fair in Isnello, half an hour away up in the mountains.
Always sensitive to green issues and healthy eating, Carmelina thought she might find some new ideas for her tailor made cooking courses conducted by Signora Carmela and Graziella, in the village. Guests can even choose from a variety of menus before they arrive so they have some idea of what they will be cooking and will have Margherita, Carmelina’s assistant, translating for them throughout their cooking lessons.
Signora Carmela teaching guests homemade pasta
The drive up to Isnello is very scenic and passes near the 12thC. Sanctuary of Gibilmanna which is a popular pilgrimage place.
Making bread and pizza in a wood fired oven
Isnello is 1600 metres above sea level at its highest level and built in a valley between majestic mountains which are still snowcapped at the moment. Its part of the Madonie National Park. A delightful village of just 1,650 inhabitants as lots have emigrated overseas or to northern Italy. Up to a few years ago you could still see chickens running around the streets and the mules and donkeys, used by the men to get back and forth from the fields, were stabled on the ground floor of the houses and were an important part of the central heating system. The animals’ body heat rose and warmed up the area upstairs where the family lived. Now they are not allowed to be kept in town as it was deemed too unhygenic and I guess the chickens were made into a tasty broth long ago.
The village of Isnello
Park by the cemetery, said Lia one of the organisers, and walk to the recreational centre, which wasn’t a bad idea as it gave us time to find our stomachs and put them back in the right place after the bendy ride up from Cefalù.
The Fair consisted in an amazing display of all the wild greens/vegetables that can be picked along the hedgerows in the surrounding countryside and an interesting conference was being held by Prof. Schicchi, a Botanist and lecturer at Palermo University who explained the edible and unedible varieties as well as their medicinal properties which were still used in local households up to the middle of the last century. He also told us about a famous Australian chef who serves 50 different salads in his restaurant. Now, who would that be? A couple of doctors followed on telling us the importance of eating healthy food so as to prevent heart disease and breast and colon cancers which was enough to make you feel guilty about eating that nice juicy rumpsteak that some of us still enjoy.
Wild asparagus
The interesting thing that came out of the Botanist’s conference was how, in the past, these greens had such an important cultural background in the local communities and were part of their staple diet. Some of these plants are unique to this area and they think Sicily has the highest number of edible wild plants in the whole of the Mediterranean. For centuries the peasant population of the mountain area knew exactly what wild vegetables would be in season throughout the year and regularly picked them to take home for dinner and also to be used in the family for medicinal purposes. This still goes on to a certain extent but basically it is only the 60+ age group who still recognises the plants but they don’t pick them so often now as the younger members of the family are not so used to eating them, probably preferring fish fingers, hamburgers and cheese slices. So is this what globalisation is all about too? Losing these centuries old traditions to the macdonalds and burger kings that are sprouting in the bigger cities on this island. In fact, the Botanist was so worried about this that he suggested to the mayor of Isnello to put aside a piece of communal ground to create an allotment so as to cultivate all the species on display and encourage the local restaurants, at least, to continue preparing them as he was afraid that soon nobody would be interested in passing this food culture on to following generations.
Red chicory
So, speeches over and done with we got down to the serious task of tasting all the different greens. The hotel school from Cefalù had been asked to cook and serve everything, under the guidance of their teaching Chef and Maitre D. Zazà from Boston, Mass., who emigrated to the States over 60 years ago, was there with a group of mature Bostonion students from his school where he teaches Italian and who were trying to fathom out the Sicilian dialect names of the various greens and veggies. Local hoteliers from the nearest ski resort – yes, we DO also have a ski resort here apart from Etna – were there, as well as some of the nearby restaurant owners and of course, most of the villagers. Then it started…………. tray after tray after tray came out of the kitchens and the feast began!
It really is incredible how many ways something that looks like a bunch of weeds when picked, can be cooked. There was red chickory sautéed with garlic and olive oil with slivers of salted ricotta or parmesan on top. Patés of slightly bitter tasting greens mixed with fresh ricotta on ciabatta bread. Stuffed and rolled wild beet leaves with cheese and ham. Wild Beet stalks alla parmigiana. Wild asparagus ham rolls. Well, everything was wild………! Then along came the fried leek patties, fennel served up in a million different ways and a pasta dish which was called Pasta con le Sarde al Mare which is the mountain version of the popular fish dish: Pasta con le Sarde, which means Pasta with Sardines, whereas the former means Pasta with Sardines Still in the Sea!!! In the old days they couldn’t easily get fish – too far for the mules to get to the coast and back without the fish stinking! - so they decided to eliminate it completely and just use the basic ingredients which are wild fennel, onion, tomato, currants and pine nuts and so as to have some sort of fishy taste they threw in a couple of salted sardines.
By that time we’d had enough roughage to last a lifetime! And a long slug of the local red wine helped wash it all down. So, what did we actually pay for all this food? Well…….actually……..nothing at all! The whole thing was sponsored and offered by the local restaurants and hotels with many thanks for a lot of snow and a good skiing season this winter, hence lots of business.
We are still trying to work out how such a little village manages to organise such great events. It is also an important centre for courses and conferences on Astronomy as it has some of the cleanest and clearest skies in the region, with no city lights pollution, and apparently an asteroid has been named after the village of Isnello too!
In June there is a guided walk being organised to the ‘monumental’ tree area just outside Isnello, higher up in the mountains, during which the Botanist will be explaining all the flora along the route.
Cefalù Beach from the Rock
